Sartorially Speaking

Of all the sartorial flourishes a gentleman may affect, the pocket square is one of the least considered but most profound. Other than the rare flap breast pocket on certain sporting jackets, we feel as though a suit or odd jacket looks undressed without a flourish on the chest. Functionally derived from a time when every man need sport a handkerchief., this bit of fabric has evolved to compliment a personal style. A glance at any movie from mid-century times will show almost every well dressed gentleman to sport this item of personal style. However, the firm grip of minimalism has made many to eschew this masculine accessory. Perhaps it is more of a hesitation on what type of square looks correct. The simplest square is composed of high quality cotton or linen and folded into , literally, a square, the tip peeking just out of the pocket. This is never incorrect, and relates nicely to the trimmer silhouettes and narrower ties and lapels that are so now in vogue. Plain white is a good choice if one is wearing an equally white shirt, but can be a touch bright with shirts of color or pattern. In this case, a cotton or linen with a print or perhaps a plaid or tattersall is correct. Also good is a hand rolled square, showing off a little of eccentricity with a colored border, well matched to one of the colors of one’s tie or shirt. For a slightly more dandified effect, a silk square in colors that reflect on one’s tie (but never, ever in the identical pattern), can show a true case of care about one’s appearance. For a more textural garment, say, a Harris Tweed sport jacket, a nice silk and wool challis is a perfect compliment. For the truly secure, a square in a color or pattern not found anywhere else on one’s body is a wonderfully eccentric flourish of style. Just make sure that several disparate elements, such as ties or socks, stand in equal contrast, so the eye is not drawn to any one item.
For a more casual outfit sans tie, the pocket square can lend a personal touch of color otherwise missing, and can anchor what might be an expressionless outfit. With the acceptance of casual attire so prevalent, the square lends itself well to a chinos or jeans combo with jacket. Here is where a rougher texture is more apropos, whether cotton, wool, or a woven and less shiny silk.
From here, it is only a matter of how a square might be worn. The aforementioned cottons and linens may be folded square, where the part showing is a plain expanse of fabric. Hand rolled edges belie a superior workmanship and may be shown square, with the edges up, or grabbed from the middle, and placed into the pocket so that the points show. With silk or other soft fabrics, either the hand rolled points may be exposed , or the points stuffed into the pocket in a manner to display a nonchalant “puff”. There is a fine line between showing too much and too little square but a good rule of thumb here is to have just a peek showing, like the cuff of one’s shirt from beneath the jacket, one half to three quarters of an inch is acceptable.
Just for a few tips: starting out, a solid color is always acceptable, a plain square fold is also worth considering, but for the truly creative, a myriad of styles, patterns and combinations can bring a new dimension to your personal style.

The Odd Vest

The odd vest brings both practicality and style to one’s wardrobe. Depending on fabric and styling, it may be worn with a suit, a sport jacket, or on it’s own. A double breasted model in a dove grey flannel for cooler climes, or a single breasted in an off white linen for warmer months makes a singular expression of style when combined with a suit, while a tweed or tattersall work well beneath a richly textured sport jacket. For a sportive and elegant holiday option, a tartan plaid works well with a cashmere or velvet coat, perfect for a festive occasion.
Many of the styling options for suit vests also apply to the odd waistcoat as well, although while lapels are optional on suit vests, they are much encouraged on the odd ones. Four pockets are also an option as are flaps on the lower pockets. When choosing one’s odd vest, cloths normally chosen for sport jackets make for rich and interesting options. Keep in mind, however, the bulk of the fabric, for the jacket might be made a little fuller to accommodate a loftier vest.
A great option on the odd waistcoat is the choice of self or contrasting cloth back, rather than the Bemberg favored for suits. This makes for a more finished look when the vest is the topmost layer, as when worn with jeans, khakis or corduroys. Only when it is the topmost layer can the vest be left unbuttoned, although the slimming effects are then minimized.
Either matching or contrasting, the waistcoat makes a most complimentary addition to ones’s kit. Dare we say, “ Go vest ,young man!”?

The Vested Suit

Far from being an anachronistic fashion accessory, the waistcoat, or vest, adds a touch of individual style. The deep “v” of the front perfectly frames the shirt and tie, and draws attention to the face. It lends a formality to the suit, staying buttoned even when the jacket is undone. It can minimize the bulk of a larger physique as well as lending height to one of a shorter stature. No wonder the rise of the expression, ”close to the vest”. Apart from being merely stylish, the vest serves a practical purpose, giving a midweight suit an additional layer of warmth during the cooler months , and it can be shed on warmer days. Both single and double breasted vests are great options, and both styles can be given extra panache with the addition of lapels. Notch or peak lapels are a fashionable touch to the single breasted , often reflecting upon the choice of the lapels for the jacket, whereas peak or shawl lapels are de rigueur for the double breasted versions. Whereas a belt on the back of the vest allows the off the peg variety to be adjusted to a plethora of girths, a perfectly fitted custom vest needs no such adjusters. Further personality can be added to the vest by the addition of a patterned or contrasting color lining. Typically, this would match the lining of the jacket, and with the jacket removed, the vest lining is exposed, therefore the choice is much more critical. The material should be Bemberg (more durable than silk) and a multitude of solids, iridescents, and patterns are available. Pockets can be flapped or welted, and two pockets are dressier than four. Fit is critical, as the vest should more closely follow the lines of the body., and should just reach the bottom of the waistband. No shirt should peek out from beneath the vest and the vest should not fold over one’s lap. The bottom button of a single breasted vest should be always left open, but on a double breasted, all buttons should be engaged.
Remember that for an ultimately stylish suit, good things come in threes.

Why are American men so hesitant to try double breasted? Not only elegant but highly flattering, double breasted was all the fashion rage in the 30’s, when American men took inspiration from their English brethren. Contrary to popular opinion, double breasted coats flatter a number of body types, with the extra swath of fabric concealing the girth of a stout man, while the peak lapels draw the eye up and out on a gentleman of abbreviated stature. Continue reading →

Often I am asked about my opinion of which color shoes are most correct. While nothing beats black for formal wear, it is often the fall back color for business or even casual footwear. While often perfectly correct, black offers so few possibilities of expression. There are not, for example, different shades of black, as there are for brown. Continue reading →