Sartorially Speaking

About Gentlemen and Clothing, by Liles Clothing Studio

The Dinner Jacket

By Bruce Liles September 25, 2012 Custom, Ready to Wear, Style Advice 1 Comment

The dinner jacket, as it is known in England, the tuxedo on this side of the pond, or the quaint “smoking” in continental Europe, is fraught with rules and regulations so stiff, they are seen by some as restrictive and intimidating. In contrast, the rules should make it easy to dress within a proper framework. One should purchase quality, of course, as a good tuxedo will last many years. Styling should not be too experimental, lest you be embarrassed to wear it a few years hence. While black is the default option, a midnight blue appears richer and darker under many indoor lights. I have often wondered, too, why an extremely dark charcoal might not make an exceptional substitute, showing a very subtle contrast against the black of the lapel.

On the subject of lapels, only peak or shawl should be considered acceptable, although I am now leaning towards the shawl, since it is rarely seen outside of semi-formal, while the peak has enjoyed a fashionable renaissance on business wear and even sportcoats lately. (I do approve of this recent rakish development.) The peak lapel, however, is perhaps a bit more flattering for those who cut a more robust silhouette. Both satin and grosgrain are acceptable, but grosgrain lends a more subtle and richer sheen.

The bowtie, of course is the most traditional, and best mirrors the color and texture of the lapels, (black, of course, in satin or twill, similar to grosgrain.) There has been somewhat of fashion lately for four in hand ties. Some feel that the elongating effect of the four-in-hand is more flattering, others feel unease at tying the bow tie. While somewhat less traditional, the four in hand can look quite elegant when done in a color and texture not seen in business dress, say silver satin. It also eliminates the need for studs.

(In part two, we will continue to study the rules and nuances of semi-formal. Right this minute, however, please excuse me as I dress for dinner.)

Hollywood Revisited… A Conversation with Andy Stinson of Stinson R. Ely Bespoke

By Bruce Liles September 25, 2012 Style Advice 1 Comment

Throughout the past two centuries, the world of men’s style has been dominated by France, England and Italy. During the 1930s, however, the worlds’ most stylishly dressed men turned to America for their inspiration, most notably to the icons of the big screen. Here were the heroes of masculine style, with their broad shoulders and long, lean legs. The clothing they wore emphasized that masculine physique. The introduction of the “Hollywood” waistband, hidden from view, created the effect of the elongated silhouette. Designer Andy Stinson of Stinson R. Ely has recreated that most elegant of styles, incorporating a true handmade American esthetic while eschewing the vogue of the trim, low-cut Italian fit. His daring designs flatter the body and instantly transform one into the modern day Adonis. Colors and patterns are drawn from this most elegant of times to bring forth the true dandy in us. A contrarian idea that makes perfect sense for this modern era, the designs of Stinson R. Ely are truly a cutting edge tour de force in contemporary menswear.

The Fabrics of Our American Heritage

By Bruce Liles July 19, 2012 American Clothing No Comments

The gentleman who embraces American heritage is quite an enigma. He is of the present, but also avidly honors the past.

I am encouraged by this rediscovered trend. It echoes a time in our life, shortly before Franklin’s discovery of electricity, that we found inspiration in the heritage and tradition of American-made clothes. As youngsters, we embarked on a quest for original Levis 501s: raw, rugged and shrunk to fit, as if they were the Holy Grail of Style.

This current movement, which reminds us of our fabled youth, reflects a feeling for quality and tradition, while respecting the old fashioned American work ethic. Indeed, when a dapper gent was a mere youngster, American manufacturing was a given with a strong presence by Levi Strauss and others. Now with a proliferation of goods made in the countries whose governments don’t really feel the love for us, there is a substantial movement to rediscover what the American worker can do.

Heritage is not just about America, of course, but is a respect for skills learned, passed down through generations, and sustained through a modern enlightenment of the origins of what we wear. In a sense, it is no different from the farm-to-table movement; the interest in jazz, blues, bluegrass, and other indigenous forms of American music; and the strong aromas of regional and cultural blends in the melting pot of America.

Heritage is about the merging of ethnic groups and cultures to find a common ground in the making of fine quality, a common ground in which we all believe in a common goal. While many of our finest tailors have a past born in other lands, the skills and work ethic they bring to the table are among the finest in the world, and we can certainly find a pride that such diverse people can create marvelous products for the benefit of all.

That is why, when practical, we must support the American worker, as well as our neighbors and trading partners throughout North America and Europe. Although the initial cost might be slightly greater, the value added, for all of us, will far exceed the cost.

Dressing the Dandy

By Bruce Liles June 26, 2012 Style Advice No Comments

From Hackett Runway

The dandy is perhaps the gentleman who has the most fun with his wardrobe. A dandy knows the boundaries and pushes them to the limit. His personality is larger than life and his mode of dress reflects that. He shows creativity in his selections that often fly in the face of the current zeitgeist. The dandy is not afraid of color. His socks, tie and pocket square or circle might be of a bold and colorful nature, not meant to match anything but his mood. He is the gentleman often seen wearing a bow tie or an ascot, he might wear cufflinks of a fun and whimsical nature. He draws inspiration from old Hollywood, when the clothing often appeared larger than life, all the better to show up on the screen. Double breasted jackets and vests might hold particular interest to him. Bold jacket linings and bright belts or braces would be his cup of tea. Unlike his more conservative dapper brethren, he definitely enjoys having others notice his individual flair.

As an aside here, there is a middle ground between the two. One might accompany elements of each in one’s every day dress, adopting one or two elements of the dandy into otherwise serious business clothing. There might also be occasions where one might dress in two completely different modes, say as the confident dapper gentleman when closing the billion dollar deal, and as the exuberant dandy when celebrating it.

Who is the perfect candidate for dandyism? You know who you are. C.E.O.s are great, because they can do as they please. Those who are in public speaking will probably also want to call a little attention to themselves. Those in creative professions, such as actors, designers, architects, restaurateurs, gallery owners, artists, musicians, athletes, and haberdashers, to name a few, are expected to dress in a manner that shows forethought and creativity. Just be sure that in calling attention to yourself in this manner, you must be on top of your game. But of course you already knew that.

On Being Dapper…

By Bruce Liles June 18, 2012 American Clothing, Style Advice 1 Comment

Sean Connery and Honor Blackman in "Goldfinger"

Source: Recreating A Masterpiece

The ultimate goal of the dapper gentleman is to dress and groom himself in a manner that neither detracts from nor calls undue attention to his own persona. The best adage of this is the thought that once the dapper gentleman is out of sight, one might recall that he was well dressed, while remembering nothing specific about what he was wearing. His clothing is both armor and a camouflage. He is meticulously and appropriately dressed.

The dapper gentleman, should he be wearing a suit, would match his socks to his suit color, not to his shoes. They would be long enough to not expose calf with legs crossed and may contain a hint of pattern. His shoes would preferably be an Oxford or derby model of a subtle color, with dark browns and cordovan shades recommended for their richness and versatility. The color would be of similar shade as his belt, unless, of course, he opted for braces or side tabs on his trousers. Suits should be blues, greys, or in the tan family. Subtle stripes and plaids are suggested for variety. Shirts may be white, pastels, solids, checks, or stripes. Ties may be muted or colorful, as this is an area where the most conservative may invoke some flair.

Pocket squares or circles are recommended. A white linen square, often trimmed with a bit of color, say from the suit or tie, makes a wise choice. Proportions should be graded to the gent’s size, not to fashion, with a harmonious blend between the width of tie, the length of collar, and the lapels of jacket.

Rather than being an affectation, the dapper gent’s clothing should be viewed as part of the meticulous and organized way that he approaches life and career. This would thus be appropriate dress for those in the fields of law, finance, medicine, religion or governance, lending a sense of gravitas, intelligence, and respect for self and others.

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