Sartorially Speaking

Scarpe Di Bianco

Bruce Liles — Wed, 15 Jun 2011 14:36:07 +0000

A Tale of a Bespoke Shoe

Through my long time association with Sutor Mantelassi shoes, I became friends with the very elegant Bill White. When Bill started a new venture with a very fine Italian cobbler, I took notice. When he told me that he could now make a Bespoke shoe, I took action. For all those gentleman who demand the fit, the quality, and the personalized style of custom clothing, until now the only option for their feet was to choose from a rather pitiable selection of footwear that was either somnambulant in style, or so fashion forward as to look dated next month. Now with Scarpe di Bianco, men of taste can choose the perfect last, an exacting fit, and a choice of colors, styles, and leathers both smooth and pebbled, as well as exotics and suedes. Stains can be applied to truly accent the contours of the shoe, and a perfect and harmonious polish can complete the total look. Constructions run from the soft and flexible Blake to the sturdiest Goodyear or Norwegian welt construction. Styles range from the most supple unlined loafer to hale and hearty brogues to countrified Demi boots. Soles may be leather, rubber or a combination of the two.

Nowhere else in Raleigh, or indeed the Carolinas, do you have the choice of a custom shoe by Scarpe di Bianco. Any gentleman who demands a custom made wardrobe for his Bespoke lifestyle must surely indulge in a pair or three of these incredible handmade Italian shoes.
Scarpe di Bianco is available now only at Liles Clothing Studio in Raleigh’s North Hills.

Liles Bespoke Custom Clothing

Bruce Liles — Sat, 04 Jun 2011 19:49:02 +0000

A Tale of Custom Tailoring

In classic British tailoring tradition, a garment was not made until it was spoken for. Now Liles Clothing Studio revives that tradition with Liles Bespoke. An Italian tailor in Queens, New York, recreates this Saville Row experience in Raleigh. Not content with the commercial offerings of big name firms, the Liles Bespoke line has been created using the experience that we have gained in decades of dressing Raleigh’s most dapper gentlemen. We sought to find the best tailoring house that we could possibly find. We established a pipeline with fabric houses in England and Italy. We studied the history of classic men’s clothing as well as the most forward designers. This journey led us to the best of the best.
While vetting the workshop to make sure that it met Liles Clothing Studio’s exacting standards, a rapport was immediately established between our head tailor and theirs. There is truly an unspoken language between master tailors when they sense each others devotion to his craft. Brought together with our agent of style who researches the finest cloth suppliers in the world means that a truly unique garment can be custom tailored to your fit and taste.

The process is completely unlike shopping for a suit. Instead of choosing a suit or sport coat made to please, somewhat, a thousand people, you design something special for you. Instead of details and styling made not to offend, you choose those details made to inspire. Instead of choosing from among the ten or twenty suits in your size, you choose from literally hundreds of different cloths. Whereas a suit off the peg comes in a size and length, a custom suit or sport coat from Liles Bespoke is made from a pattern using over twenty different measurements, so that you experience a fit unlike any you have known.

From Naples to New York to Raleigh, Liles Bespoke makes custom clothing on a par with the best in the world. Come to Raleigh’s North Hills or call Liles Clothing Studio for your in home or office appointment and have Liles Bespoke custom clothing suit you to a tee.

Caruso Clothing

Bruce Liles — Wed, 25 May 2011 16:07:11 +0000

Caruso Custom Clothing
A Well Turned Glimpse

For many years, we have been Raleigh’s exclusive home to the designs of Raffaele Caruso, probably the best kept secret in better Italian menswear. The suits and sport coats of Caruso are not only made with exquisite detail and care, but with a trim athleticism that transform body and soul. It has often been noted that a gentleman is well dressed when one remembers how well he was turned out, but not exactly what he was wearing. This is the kind of magic at work in a Caruso garment. The lean lines of a Caruso suit or jacket enhance the wearer, fitting the slim gentleman perfectly, while comfortably outfitting the less than perfect physique into a paragon of manly virtue. New ownership at Raffaele Caruso has only strengthened the brand, with the public name of Caruso bringing a modernity and elegance to the label.

We are now extremely pleased to announce that a ” Su Misura”, or custom box, has been sent to Liles Clothing Studio for us to bring this wonderful garment to everyone, despite their size or stature. Now everyone can benefit from having a Caruso suit or sport coat made entirely for them from a range of cloths that are among England and Italy’s finest, ranging up to a remarkable super 180′s. Best of all, the new Caruso custom box represents a value seldom seen in Italian clothing, all the while allowing the individual the choice of fit, fabric, and options available to the true custom aficionado.

Come sample the new collection of Caruso, available in Raleigh only at Liles Clothing Studio, your custom suit specialist.

The Pocket, Squared

Bruce Liles — Mon, 25 Oct 2010 14:23:11 +0000

Of all the sartorial flourishes a gentleman may affect, the pocket square is one of the least considered but most profound. Other than the rare flap breast pocket on certain sporting jackets, we feel as though a suit or odd jacket looks undressed without a flourish on the chest. Functionally derived from a time when every man need sport a handkerchief., this bit of fabric has evolved to compliment a personal style. A glance at any movie from mid-century times will show almost every well dressed gentleman to sport this item of personal style. However, the firm grip of minimalism has made many to eschew this masculine accessory. Perhaps it is more of a hesitation on what type of square looks correct. The simplest square is composed of high quality cotton or linen and folded into , literally, a square, the tip peeking just out of the pocket. This is never incorrect, and relates nicely to the trimmer silhouettes and narrower ties and lapels that are so now in vogue. Plain white is a good choice if one is wearing an equally white shirt, but can be a touch bright with shirts of color or pattern. In this case, a cotton or linen with a print or perhaps a plaid or tattersall is correct. Also good is a hand rolled square, showing off a little of eccentricity with a colored border, well matched to one of the colors of one’s tie or shirt. For a slightly more dandified effect, a silk square in colors that reflect on one’s tie (but never, ever in the identical pattern), can show a true case of care about one’s appearance. For a more textural garment, say, a Harris Tweed sport jacket, a nice silk and wool challis is a perfect compliment. For the truly secure, a square in a color or pattern not found anywhere else on one’s body is a wonderfully eccentric flourish of style. Just make sure that several disparate elements, such as ties or socks, stand in equal contrast, so the eye is not drawn to any one item.
For a more casual outfit sans tie, the pocket square can lend a personal touch of color otherwise missing, and can anchor what might be an expressionless outfit. With the acceptance of casual attire so prevalent, the square lends itself well to a chinos or jeans combo with jacket. Here is where a rougher texture is more apropos, whether cotton, wool, or a woven and less shiny silk.
From here, it is only a matter of how a square might be worn. The aforementioned cottons and linens may be folded square, where the part showing is a plain expanse of fabric. Hand rolled edges belie a superior workmanship and may be shown square, with the edges up, or grabbed from the middle, and placed into the pocket so that the points show. With silk or other soft fabrics, either the hand rolled points may be exposed , or the points stuffed into the pocket in a manner to display a nonchalant “puff”. There is a fine line between showing too much and too little square but a good rule of thumb here is to have just a peek showing, like the cuff of one’s shirt from beneath the jacket, one half to three quarters of an inch is acceptable.
Just for a few tips: starting out, a solid color is always acceptable, a plain square fold is also worth considering, but for the truly creative, a myriad of styles, patterns and combinations can bring a new dimension to your personal style.

Vested Interest, Part II

Bruce Liles — Tue, 12 Oct 2010 15:13:39 +0000

The Odd Vest

The odd vest brings both practicality and style to one’s wardrobe. Depending on fabric and styling, it may be worn with a suit, a sport jacket, or on it’s own. A double breasted model in a dove grey flannel for cooler climes, or a single breasted in an off white linen for warmer months makes a singular expression of style when combined with a suit, while a tweed or tattersall work well beneath a richly textured sport jacket. For a sportive and elegant holiday option, a tartan plaid works well with a cashmere or velvet coat, perfect for a festive occasion.
Many of the styling options for suit vests also apply to the odd waistcoat as well, although while lapels are optional on suit vests, they are much encouraged on the odd ones. Four pockets are also an option as are flaps on the lower pockets. When choosing one’s odd vest, cloths normally chosen for sport jackets make for rich and interesting options. Keep in mind, however, the bulk of the fabric, for the jacket might be made a little fuller to accommodate a loftier vest.
A great option on the odd waistcoat is the choice of self or contrasting cloth back, rather than the Bemberg favored for suits. This makes for a more finished look when the vest is the topmost layer, as when worn with jeans, khakis or corduroys. Only when it is the topmost layer can the vest be left unbuttoned, although the slimming effects are then minimized.
Either matching or contrasting, the waistcoat makes a most complimentary addition to ones’s kit. Dare we say, “ Go vest ,young man!”?

Vested Interest, Part I

Bruce Liles — Wed, 06 Oct 2010 15:38:02 +0000

The Vested Suit

Far from being an anachronistic fashion accessory, the waistcoat, or vest, adds a touch of individual style. The deep “v” of the front perfectly frames the shirt and tie, and draws attention to the face. It lends a formality to the suit, staying buttoned even when the jacket is undone. It can minimize the bulk of a larger physique as well as lending height to one of a shorter stature. No wonder the rise of the expression, ”close to the vest”. Apart from being merely stylish, the vest serves a practical purpose, giving a midweight suit an additional layer of warmth during the cooler months , and it can be shed on warmer days. Both single and double breasted vests are great options, and both styles can be given extra panache with the addition of lapels. Notch or peak lapels are a fashionable touch to the single breasted , often reflecting upon the choice of the lapels for the jacket, whereas peak or shawl lapels are de rigueur for the double breasted versions. Whereas a belt on the back of the vest allows the off the peg variety to be adjusted to a plethora of girths, a perfectly fitted custom vest needs no such adjusters. Further personality can be added to the vest by the addition of a patterned or contrasting color lining. Typically, this would match the lining of the jacket, and with the jacket removed, the vest lining is exposed, therefore the choice is much more critical. The material should be Bemberg (more durable than silk) and a multitude of solids, iridescents, and patterns are available. Pockets can be flapped or welted, and two pockets are dressier than four. Fit is critical, as the vest should more closely follow the lines of the body., and should just reach the bottom of the waistband. No shirt should peek out from beneath the vest and the vest should not fold over one’s lap. The bottom button of a single breasted vest should be always left open, but on a double breasted, all buttons should be engaged.
Remember that for an ultimately stylish suit, good things come in threes.

Will that be a single…or a double?

Bruce Liles — Mon, 04 Oct 2010 11:40:07 +0000

Why are American men so hesitant to try double breasted? Not only elegant but highly flattering, double breasted was all the fashion rage in the 30’s, when American men took inspiration from their English brethren. Contrary to popular opinion, double breasted coats flatter a number of body types, with the extra swath of fabric concealing the girth of a stout man, while the peak lapels draw the eye up and out on a gentleman of abbreviated stature. The key is the roll of the lapel and the fastening of the buttons. Fastened on the lower button, the long sweep of the lapel adds to an illusion of height, while a jacket buttoned to the higher button is flattering on the tall and lean. Even a single breasted jacket can borrow the peak lapels of it’s sartorial cousin, adding a hint of swagger to the silhouette. The crossover front works well in black tie, where it makes a vest or cummerbund redundant. It is also popular in a suit jacket, particularly in Europe, where it is often done up with ticket pocket, or even on a modern version with slanted hacking pockets. It is even seen in a more casual mode, such as a four button style with three open patch pockets. Perhaps the most traditional of the DB coats is the navy blazer, which harken back to it’s historical nautical origins. This version is often fastened with buttons of metal, but more contemporary versions may use mother of pearl or corozo. However you might try it, the double breasted will instantly elevate your style quotient, and make you feel confidently different. Try one and see if it doesn’t make you feel like the classic Hollywood movie idol!

How now, brown calfskin…

Bruce Liles — Fri, 01 Oct 2010 11:38:23 +0000

Often I am asked about my opinion of which color shoes are most correct. While nothing beats black for formal wear, it is often the fall back color for business or even casual footwear. While often perfectly correct, black offers so few possibilities of expression. There are not, for example, different shades of black, as there are for brown. Finishes are limited to matt finish or polished, or perhaps suede or exotics like crocodile. Yet even these different finishes come off so much richer in various shades of brown. With shades such as snuff or mahogany, British tan or cognac, brown is most often the go to color of sophisticated dressers. Yet how does one go about the pairing of these different browns with classic business dress? The key is to provide an interesting yet not jarring juxtaposition of color and texture. Suede, with it’s brushed texture, works perfectly with flannels and woolens, as well as casual cloths such as corduroy. Finer naps like nubuck work well year round, with lighter whites and tans being the perfect foil for poplin and seersucker. Some feel that white “bucks” are too hard to keep clean. I feel that is similar to the same complaint that linen wrinkles. The answer is to not try. White nubuck shoes should show a little age and wear. As for pairings with the corporate uniform of charcoal and navy, although Italians might pair a very light tan, Americans might prefer a darker shade, such as a chocolate brown or a dark burgundy. Cordovan is often known as a color, although it refers to the actual leather, a very tough yet elegant skin fashioned from a rather inelegant horse’s rump. Usually finished in a rich reddish brown that mates flawlessly with darker colors, cordovan can actually be finished in many shades from natural to (gasp!) black. As far as the accessories are concerned, that is another advantage of brown, for ones’ belt (or watchband) need only be in the general neighborhood of color, therefore making a much more interesting combo, such as a cognac alligator belt worn with snuff suede shoes. As for other colors, navy is a great shade to be worn with khaki and denim, and the Italian tradition of bright colors in driving shoes, such as red, gold or orange, favorite colors to match one’s Ferrari or Lamborghini, are not for the squeamish but add a great pop to casual wear, giving a smile and a nod of approval to all you meet. So please, experiment with color in your accessories. You will be surprised by the compliments.